Delectable kebabs, fragrant biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and travelers alike swearing by its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a prestigious list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this status, it enters a global network of more than four hundred cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its centuries-old food heritage and dynamic food ecosystem," as noted by a official from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is only the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this coveted list of 70 cities around the world.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The recognition for this venerable city is little surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many echo the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO designation, this beloved, bustling, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the global gaze for what has consistently defined its heart: an immense love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant conversation from morning until going to bed in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century opulent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a singular take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, slow heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with dough.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and stalls – hidden treasures that are extremely loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from early morning at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a frothy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and complicated. The vendor hand-churns the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On chilly mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of however express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the art.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's rich food legacy places it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – crafted by generational food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to learn these narratives and visit the city to savour the food wonders of Lucknow.
